Like last time, we split up our winter getaway o in two parts: first, staying at a remote resort on the northeast shore with plenty of space and greenery, then staying near the city to partake in much food and walking.
Basically, we know that a balance of relaxation and city life is our favorite combination. Too much city or only relaxing at a beach would get boring for us (or too stimulating and we’d never feel like we had a vacation!).
How to prep:
I didn’t do a ton of prep since the time before we left was stressful, but I did bookmark a dozen restaurants to try on Yelp. I also borrowed this guide from the library and brought it along – I used it to find places that Yelp didn’t tell me about or to verify Yelp’s recommendations.
Stay:
If you’re wondering where to stay on Costa Rica I recommend checking out these Costa Rica Villas. . It was huge. There were iguanas everywhere, much to my preschooler’s delight. The best part was the pool, hands down:
Take me back.
It was so huge that it never got crowded and we always had a ton of space to ourselves. It was also shallow enough for the 4 year old to walk around in much of it. I’m still sad I didn’t get to try the wet bar, but it turns out vacationing with an infant and preschooler doesn’t allow for much more than grabbing a bottle of sangria at the grocery store and drinking on the balcony while the baby naps. (Not complaining.) The balcony on our room was huge, which is also really nice if you’re going to be spending a week in the tropics in February, you know? Maximize that outdoor time!
I also liked how the rooms were gigantic and part of a bungalow instead of a traditional high rise building. The gigantic open-air lobby was full of places to hang out, as well.
And we spent a lot of time exploring the grounds – there was a lot of beachfront to walk along (with a hammock every 5 feet in case you need a break from that hard resort life) and the golf course had a walking path.
The Villas grounds – so gorgeous.
Eat:
First, let me warn you that if you’re traveling to Costa Rica with a baby: be prepared to wait. (well, everyone be prepared to wait. It’s not like they make you wait more with a baby. Babies are just impatient.) The restaurants are wonderful, but at almost all of them, our wait for food was much longer than we ever encounter at home. Normally, this is not a big deal. With a baby who has about 20 minutes of happiness to work with, one of us would end up leaving restaurants a lot to soothe His Royal Fussiness. At least it was 80 degrees and being outside was totally tolerable.
La Familia Bakery 2 – Yelp steered us toward this little cafe and I’m so glad it did. Get a swiss and egg sandwich on sweet bread and a cafe con leche or two for about $5. Definitely try the pastries, as well. I’m wishing I had my hands on another amazing donut right now! Skip the guava pastry, though, it was overrated. We picked up breakfast and ate it while driving to the rainforest. With the windows down. Happy sigh. I
La Estacion – We came here because I read on Yelp that they serve the vegetarian option (a bunch of side dishes) on a chopping block and I am one for novelty. It was very, very tasty. Even something simple like rice and beans were fantastic. It’s big on local ingredients and a foodie sort of place, to be sure. The pineapple sangria was A+.
Lluvia – A more upscale local eatery – it’s clean, has great food (get the guava pancakes and skip the breakfast burrito), and it incredibly welcoming. If your Spanish isn’t strong, don’t worry. Everyone seems to be super fluent in English. (I hate that I don’t know Spanish. It feels so rude, but that’s another post.)
Grocery store – If you’re going to be staying a resort with kids, sometimes you just need a PB & J without leaving your room or spending $12. This is what the grocery store is for. Also, be sure to pick up at least 3 things you’ve never tried before. Because you’re in Costa Rica! Try new things! (Please note – the grocery store doesn’t open until 11 am Sunday. Island life.)
Just note on coffee – they don’t serve brewed coffee, just espresso, and it is fantastic. There’s something magical about coffee in Costa Rica. They really value it, for one. I’d drink a cafe con leche every day of my life if I could. I’m on a hunt to find one just like it here, but no luck so far.
Do:
Now, talking about the other head of the coin, Puerto Rico, if you’re staying anywhere but Old San Juan, I recommend renting a car. The prices are low and it really opens the island up to exploring! (And if you have kids in car seats, it’s just easier.)
The most important thing to do here: go to the rainforest.
El Yunque National Forest, to be specific. The only tropical rainforest in the US National Forest system! Bring a bathing suit if you want to swim in the waterfall. It’s a pretty easy hike. I did it in my Teva flip flops. Afterward we grabbed some food from a roadside stand and Gabe got to drink coconut water from a coconut. He hated it, but new things! Must try!
The moon wasn’t right to do the bioluminescent tour in Fajardo this time, and with a baby, we were worried he’d cry on a tour, so we skipped any tour to the lighthouse. We enjoyed it last time, so I recommend checking it out! It was a really special experience. When we go back again (we WILL), Theo will be older and we’ll go again!
Luquillo – The other popular attraction in this area is a beach and food kiosks called Luquillo. It’s a quick drive from Rio Grande. The beach is gorgeous, but only open Wednesday through Sunday, so we didn’t actually get to go. But we did eat dinner at the kiosks. It’s a lot of fried food and a lot of meat, but we found a place that served veggie nachos and grilled cheese sandwiches! It wasn’t better than, say, a Five Guys meal, but we were looking at the ocean while we ate, so I can’t complain. Also, Five Guys doesn’t serve mojitos.
And that’s the first half our magical week, I feel more relaxed just remembering it. Vacation is totally worth the money.
Feisty Harriet says
Swooooon!! I am so jealous of your wonderful tropical getaway!!!
xox
Home Sweet Sarah says
GAH I need a vacation. Also, you were at that resort at the same time as my friend Kim and her mom, so it was fun seeing both your IG photos of the same views (mostly, the hammocking.)
Ashley says
No way! That’s so crazy. I could’ve stalked her!! ;)
Crystal says
we went to Puerto Rico for our honeymoon and looooved it. We are exactly like you, aiming to split our vacations between country (beach) and city. We did half the week in Vieques and half in San Juan. It was incredible and we dream about going back! But we are in the UK now, so our next trip is to Lisbon!
Ashley says
Oh, I’d love to go to one of the islands one day! With the kids being little, it’s hard, but eventually… :)
Kelly says
Glad you had such a relaxing and fun vacation! I totally understand the waiting at the restaurants thing. Max isn’t fussy but he has a normal limit for restaurants for a 1 year old. When we are out at meals with other people and they don’t know what they want I start to feel myself getting anxious because I know I will no longer be getting to eat haha.
Ashley says
Yes! That anxiety! Totally know what you mean.
Becky says
OMG I want to go now. What a great recap – such great points and so gorgeous!
Nora says
Pretty sure the Puerto Rico Tourism office should sponsor you and send you back again and again so you can share with us the joys of P.R. This makes me want to go because apart from running through the San Juan airport to catch a flight, that’s the extent of my experience there. My parents loved it and I’ve heard nothing but great things about El Yunque… and I wonder if I still have the shirt my parents brought me back from there. it was my favorite for years!
Kunja Dsouza says
Hi Guys, I have got to tell you this. So I am an Indian Vegetarian who just moved to the US three weeks ago. My Husband and I decided to go to puerto Rico for a short break a month ago. So I did some research and found your blog online. I forgot about it till we reached PR. I had saved the link anyway. While in puerto, Your post became our Bible. Amazing finds for food and stay and Bars ! We were so happy to have found amazing references that it made our job a whole lot easier. Thank You guys so much !
Ashley says
Oh, yay!! That makes me so happy. :) Hope you guys had a great trip! Thanks for sharing.
Kate @ GreatestEscapist.com says
What an amazing vacation. The view of that pool… good God!
Sheila says
I’m SO going to use your Puerto Rico posts from this year and 2 years ago as my travel guides :).
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Michelle says
Hi there! Totally random question, but what kind of room did you get at the Gran Melia? I usually like to stay in apartment-type rentals because of the separate bedroom. You know, so you don’t have to sit in a dark room starting at 8 pm because that’s when the kiddo goes to bed. They seem to have “family” rooms available, but I’m not clear from the pictures how they are set up. Advice??
Ashley says
We stayed in a “Deluxe Garden View Junior Suite” – not Red Level or anything. There was NOT a separate bedroom area, but we could’ve put a pack n play in the giant bathroom if we wanted. (We just ended up all going to bed at like 8 pm since it was 9 pm at home we were ALL ready for bed.) Good luck and have fun!
Karine says
Hi,
So glad I found this page! I really can’t wait for our upcoming trip to PR in July
I’m going with my husband and kids (7 &9) . We’ll be doing both the city and the resort. In Rio Grande, I’m hesitating between the Wyndham Rio Mar and the Gran Melia. Both seems to be awesome! Since you stayed at both hotels, would recommend one more than the other?
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